Monthly Archives: August 2013

Pleated Patch Pocket Pattern

Pleated Patch Pocket with Button Tab Pattern

Pleated Patch Pocket with Button Tab

This isn’t a proper tutorial since I didn’t take any pictures as I was making the patch pockets, but Rachel asked about how I made the pockets on my Hawthorn Skirt, so I figured I might as well scan and upload my pattern pieces in case anyone else wants to use them 🙂

You can click on the link below to print out the pocket template (2 pages).

Pleated Patch Pocket Pattern

A few instructions:

1. Press the main piece along the two fold lines

2. Fold main piece, good sides together, lining up fold lines and stitch along fold lines starting at top, down to circle markings (1 1/4″). This holds the pleat together at the top.

3. Line up folds with center markings and press flat to finish pleat. (It should now look like a pleat with 4 folds, 2 outside and 2 inside).

4. Turn the bottom edge of the facing piece under 1/4″ and press (you can also stitch close to the edge to hold in place)

5. Line up the facing at the top of the main piece, right sides together, and stitch together along top and sides. Grade and turn, then press flat.

6. Edgestitch along the top seam and again 1″ below the top seam to hold the facing in place.

7. Turn under the rest of the pocket edge 1/4″ and press.

8. Pin your pocket to your skirt (or whatever else you’re adding a pocket to), and edgestitch around the curve to attach your pocket.

bottom of pleat

9. With button tab pieces right sides together, stitch 1/4″ around curved edge, then turn right side out and press. Edgestich around curve.

10.  Make a buttonhole on the tab to match your button (I used a 1 1/4″ button)

11. Turn under raw edge of tab 1/4″, press and stitch down.

12. Place tab, centered on pleat, slightly above top of pocket and stitch to skirt (see photo above).

13. Stitch button on at the point where the pleat opens up.

That’s it! Sorry I don’t have pictures of the process, but feel free to ask questions if anything is unclear.

Field Study Hawthorn

I finally finished my Hawthorn for the sew-along! Between major fitting problems, family visiting, and irresistible beach weather, I just didn’t get much sewing done this month! I had three versions of the Hawthorn planned, including one made with the fabric I dyed (I was going to knit some lace details out of linen yarn for that one), but I only managed to finish this one.

Hawthorn Blouse and Skirt

I made two muslins, and this top is actually my third muslin, which is pretty much wearable, but far from perfect. I had to lengthen the top of the bodice by 3/4″ because the bust points were too high and the armscyes  were right up in my armpits! I had no idea how to do it properly, but I found  this tutorial, and just guessed my way through lengthening the collar to match the new bodice. This modification was actually not as hard as I thought it would be!

The other major problem was the bust. This pattern is drafted for a C or D cup (which I am definitely not!), so I knew I had to do an SBA (small bust adjustment). The problem is, my measurements match the size chart exactly, so I didn’t really have any width to pinch out as suggested in the Colette tutorial for an SBA. Plus, their tutorial also suggested to shorten the back to match the amount shortened in the front from the SBA, but the back was already too short on me, and the front was too long. I was totally lost.

I then questioned whether or not it was really necessary, but I figured all the extra length at the front must be there to accommodate a larger chest, which I don’t have, so I started pinning and basting, seam ripping, then pinning and basting all over again until I eventually gave up and decided it would have to be good enough. Basically, I ended up moving some of the width of the front darts to the side seams, so the overall measurements would stay the same, and then I chopped off some of the center front.

No matter what I did, I couldn’t get rid of those lines going from the bust to the side seams. Does anyone know how to fix that?

Hawthorn Blouse

Even worse from the front! I just found this post on the side effects of bust adjustments from Shona Stitches that perfectly captures the frustration I went through. There are even some links there for alternative ways to do bust adjustments that I will definitely try for my next version.

Hawthorn Blouse

I’m actually pretty happy with the fit at the back. I added another inch to the lower back to get the waistline to sit at my natural waist. Although, it looks kind of long in the photo and I’m not sure why!

Hawthorn Blouse

I used 100% cotton voile from Hart’s Fabrics and shell buttons for the blouse.

Hawthorn Blouse

For the skirt, I drafted a waistband (aka rectangle), and some belt loops (aka smaller rectangles). A real confidence-booster after the top!

Hawthorn Blouse and Skirt

I lined the waistband with some soft 100% organic cotton polka dot fabric from Eden Fabrics. The main fabric for the skirt is Parenthetical Flight Field Study Linen by Anna Maria Horner (55% linen, 45% cotton). I didn’t have enough fabric to do any print matching, but it wouldn’t have worked with the pleated pockets anyway. The small buttons are tagua nut, and the large ones are wood.

Hawthorn Skirt

I drafted patch pockets with a pleat and a button tab to top it off.  They don’t really stand out as much as I’d like. Maybe I should have used contrast stitching or piping or something.

Hawthorn Skirt

Overall, I still love the Hawthorn pattern, but I think I need to learn a lot more about fitting before I tackle my second version. But there will definitely be a second version, and probably a third!

P.S. You can check out other Hawthorns from the sew along and vote for your favourites here. I’m so thrilled to be included in the parade!